How To Install Crown Moulding On Kitchen Cabinets: Easy Guide

Can you install crown moulding on kitchen cabinets yourself? Yes, absolutely! With the right tools and a bit of patience, tackling crown molding installation on your kitchen cabinets can be a rewarding DIY project. This guide will walk you through everything you need to know, from selecting the right molding to making those final, professional-looking touches. Adding crown molding to your kitchen cabinets is a fantastic way to elevate the look of your kitchen, adding a touch of elegance and a finished appearance that can make a significant difference in the overall aesthetic. It’s a classic design element that provides a polished cabinet finishing.

How To Install Crown Moulding On Kitchen Cabinets
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Why Add Crown Moulding to Your Kitchen Cabinets?

Before we dive into the “how-to,” let’s explore why adding crown molding is such a popular choice for kitchen cabinet remodeling.

Enhanced Aesthetics: Crown molding adds a decorative transition between your cabinets and the ceiling, creating a more finished and sophisticated look. It breaks up the visual monotony of a plain cabinet-to-ceiling line.
Increased Perceived Value: A well-executed crown molding installation can make your kitchen appear more luxurious and custom-built, potentially increasing your home’s resale value.
Conceals Imperfections: It can hide uneven ceiling lines or slight gaps between the cabinets and the ceiling, which are common in older homes.
Customization: Crown molding comes in a wide variety of styles and materials, allowing you to personalize your kitchen’s design.

Types of Crown Moulding for Kitchen Cabinets

Choosing the right type of crown molding is the first crucial step in your cabinet crown installation. The material and style will impact both the look and the installation process.

Material Options:

Wood:
- Pine: Affordable and easy to paint or stain, but can be softer and prone to dents.
- Poplar: A good balance of affordability and durability, paints well.
- Maple, Oak, Cherry: Hardwoods that are more durable and offer beautiful natural grain patterns for staining. They are generally more expensive.
MDF (Medium-Density Fiberboard):
- Cost-effective and paints smoothly. However, it’s susceptible to moisture damage and can be heavier than wood.
Polyurethane/Foam:
- Lightweight, easy to cut and install, and resistant to moisture and pests. It can mimic the look of wood and is often pre-primed for painting. It’s a great option for DIY cabinet molding.

Style Considerations:

The profile of the molding is critical. Here are common styles you’ll find:

Simple Ogee: A graceful S-shaped curve.
Coved: A smooth, concave curve.
Dentil: Features a series of small, tooth-like projections.
Rake: A molding with a sloped or angled profile, often used where cabinets meet a sloped ceiling.
Crown Molding with a Back Band: A more elaborate profile with multiple components, offering a more traditional and decorative look.

Tip: For kitchen cabinets, consider moldings that are not too deep or bulky, as they can overpower the cabinets. A molding that is 2-4 inches in height is often ideal.

Essential Tools and Materials for Crown Moulding Installation

Gathering the right tools and materials before you begin will make the process smoother and ensure a professional finish. This is key for successful crown molding installation.

Tools:

Miter Saw: Absolutely essential for making precise angled cuts (miter cuts). A compound miter saw is even better, allowing for both horizontal and vertical bevels needed for crown molding.
Measuring Tape: For accurate measurements of your cabinet runs.
Pencil: For marking cuts and placement.
Stud Finder: To locate wall studs for secure fastening.
Level: To ensure your molding is installed straight.
Coping Saw or Oscillating Multi-Tool: Useful for making inside corner coping cuts if you choose that method.
Nail Gun (Brad Nailer or Finish Nailer): Highly recommended for driving nails cleanly and efficiently. Use 18-gauge or 16-gauge nails.
Hammer: For manual nailing if a nail gun isn’t available.
Nail Set: To recess nail heads slightly below the surface for easier filling.
Caulking Gun: For applying caulk to fill gaps and create a seamless finish.
Sanding Block or Electric Sander: For smoothing rough edges or filled nail holes.
Safety Glasses: Always wear safety glasses when cutting or nailing.
Dust Mask: To protect yourself from sawdust.
Ladder or Sturdy Step Stool: To safely reach your cabinets.

Materials:

Crown Molding: Purchase slightly more than you think you’ll need to account for mistakes and cuts.
Wood Glue or Crown Molding Adhesive: For reinforcing joints and adhering molding where nails aren’t feasible.
Finishing Nails: 18-gauge or 16-gauge finishing nails, long enough to penetrate the molding and secure into the cabinet or wall stud.
Wood Filler or Spackle: For filling nail holes and small gaps.
Caulk: Paintable caulk to fill any remaining gaps between the molding and the cabinet or ceiling.
Primer and Paint (or Stain and Sealer): To match your existing cabinets or desired finish.
Rags: For cleaning up excess glue or dust.

Pre-Installation Steps: Planning and Preparation

Proper preparation is vital for a flawless crown molding installation. This is where you lay the groundwork for success.

1. Measure Accurately:

Measure the length of each cabinet run where you plan to install molding.
Add at least 10-15% extra to your total measurement to account for angled cuts, potential mistakes, and waste.

2. Choose Your Installation Angle:

There are two primary ways to install crown molding:

Planted Against the Cabinet and Ceiling: This is the most common method. The molding sits flush against the cabinet face and the ceiling. For inside and outside corners, you’ll use miter cuts. This is often the easiest method for beginners.
Coping: This technique involves cutting one piece of molding with a miter cut and then shaping the adjoining piece to fit snugly against the profile of the first piece using a coping saw. This is considered the most professional method for inside corners as it accounts for wall imperfections and expansion/contraction of wood. It’s more challenging but yields a tighter fit.

3. Plan Your Cuts and Layout:

Inside Corners: For most kitchen cabinets, you’ll have inside corners where cabinets meet at a wall.
Outside Corners: Less common in standard kitchen layouts, but possible if cabinets wrap around an island or peninsula.
Where Molding Meets Walls: You’ll need to cut angles where the molding meets the wall.

4. Pre-Finishing (Optional but Recommended):

If you plan to paint or stain your crown molding, it’s often easier to do it before installation. This allows for a more even finish and avoids drips on your cabinets or ceiling.
Apply primer and your desired finish to the back and sides of the molding that will be visible. Let it dry completely.

Step-by-Step Guide to Crown Moulding Installation

Now, let’s get down to the actual process of installing your cabinet molding.

Step 1: Setting Up Your Miter Saw

A miter saw is your best friend for crown molding installation.

Understanding Crown Molding Angles: Standard crown molding typically sits at a 38-degree or 45-degree angle relative to the wall. Your miter saw will need to be set to make the correct compound cuts.
- Common Setting: Many miter saws have a “crown molding” setting or allow you to input specific angles. If not, you’ll typically set the miter angle to 31.6 degrees (for a 38-degree spring angle) or 35.3 degrees (for a 45-degree spring angle) and the bevel angle to 0 degrees or 15 degrees depending on your molding profile.
- Test Cuts: Always perform test cuts on scrap pieces of molding to ensure your angles are correct before cutting your actual molding. Hold the scrap piece against the cabinet and ceiling as you would the installed molding to check the fit.

Step 2: Making Your First Cuts

Inside Corners:
1. Start with an inside corner. You’ll be cutting both pieces at a 45-degree angle.
2. Piece 1: Set your miter saw to a 45-degree angle (miter cut). The bevel should be set to 0 degrees. You will be cutting the piece so that the longer edge is against the wall and the shorter edge meets the next piece.
3. Piece 2: The second piece for the inside corner will also be cut at a 45-degree angle, but the direction of the cut will be reversed so the pieces join cleanly.
4. Hold Your Molding: For standard installation, the easiest way to make these cuts is to hold the molding upside down and backward against the saw’s fence. The top edge of the molding will be against the saw’s fence, and the bottom edge will be against the saw’s table. This is often called the “in the rough” or “against the fence” method.
Outside Corners:
1. For an outside corner, you’ll also use a 45-degree miter cut, but the direction of the cuts will be such that the molding pieces “turn the corner.”
2. Hold Your Molding: Again, holding the molding upside down and backward against the fence is often the easiest method. The angle will be away from the fence for both pieces.

Tip: Many miter saws come with a diagram or instruction manual specifically for crown molding cuts. Consult it!

Step 3: Dry Fitting and Notching

Test the Fit: Before you nail anything, hold your cut pieces up to the cabinets and ceiling to ensure they fit snugly. Pay close attention to the corners.
Notching for Recessed Lights or Obstructions: If you have recessed lighting or other obstructions, you may need to notch out a section of the molding to fit around it. This is done using the miter saw or a handsaw.

Step 4: Securing the Crown Moulding

This is where the actual cabinet crown installation begins.

Locate Wall Studs: Use your stud finder to mark the location of wall studs where the molding will meet the wall. This is crucial for long-term stability.
Apply Adhesive: For an extra strong bond and to help fill any minor gaps, apply a bead of high-quality crown molding adhesive or wood glue to the back of the molding where it will contact the cabinet and the ceiling/wall.
Position the First Piece: Carefully position the first piece of molding against the cabinet and ceiling.
Nail into Place:
1. Cabinet Face: Use your nail gun to drive nails through the molding into the top edge of the cabinet face. Aim for a slight upward angle into the cabinet.
2. Wall/Ceiling: Drive nails through the molding into the wall studs and any solid ceiling joists you can locate. If you can’t hit a stud, the adhesive will provide some holding power, but stud fastening is always best.
3. Spacing: Space nails approximately 12-16 inches apart.
Use the Nail Set: After nailing, use your nail set to gently tap the nail heads slightly below the surface of the molding. This prepares the area for filling.
Continue Along the Run: Work your way along the cabinet run, cutting and fitting each piece. For long runs, you’ll need to join pieces together.

Step 5: Joining Pieces and Corners

Joining Pieces (Field Joints): When you need to join two pieces of molding along a straight run, use a scarf joint. This involves cutting each piece at a 45-degree angle (in opposite directions) and then joining them with wood glue or crown molding adhesive and a couple of finish nails. This provides a stronger, less noticeable joint than a square butt joint.
Inside and Outside Corners: Ensure your miter cuts for corners are precise. If there are slight gaps after fitting, caulk will be your friend.

Step 6: Filling Nail Holes and Gaps

This is a key cabinet finishing step for a professional look.

Fill Nail Holes: Use wood filler or spackle to fill all the nail holes you created. Apply it slightly proud of the surface, then let it dry according to the product instructions.
Sand Smooth: Once the filler is dry, sand it smooth with a fine-grit sandpaper. Be careful not to oversand the molding itself.
Fill Gaps:
- Molding to Cabinet: Use paintable caulk to fill any small gaps between the bottom of the molding and the top of the cabinet.
- Molding to Ceiling/Wall: Caulk any gaps along the top edge where the molding meets the ceiling or wall. This is especially important if your walls or ceilings aren’t perfectly straight.
Wipe Away Excess: Use a damp rag to wipe away any excess caulk immediately after applying it.

Step 7: Final Painting or Staining

Touch-Up: If you pre-finished your molding, you might only need to touch up any areas where you filled nail holes or if the finish was scuffed during installation.
Paint or Stain: If you opted for unfinished molding, now is the time to apply your primer and paint or stain and sealer. Ensure you get an even coat, using a small brush to get into any intricate profiles. Two coats are often recommended for a durable finish.

Cabinet Molding Tips for a Pro Finish

Here are some extra cabinet molding tips to help you achieve a professional outcome:

Start in an Inconspicuous Area: If you’re new to this, begin in a corner or on a shorter cabinet run that’s less visible.
Work with a Helper: Having a second person to help hold longer pieces of molding steady while you cut or nail can make a huge difference.
Don’t Rush the Cuts: Accuracy on your miter saw is paramount. Take your time and double-check your settings.
Consider Crown Molding Clips: For heavier moldings or for added security, some installers use specialized crown molding clips that attach to the back of the molding and then into the cabinet or ceiling.
The “Spring Angle”: Understanding how your molding sits when installed is crucial for miter saw settings. Most crown molding is designed to be installed with a specific “spring angle.” If you’re unsure, look up the specifications for your molding type or consult online tutorials specific to your saw.
For DIY Cabinet Molding: If you’re a beginner, consider using polyurethane or foam molding. It’s lighter, more forgiving, and often comes with simpler installation instructions.

Troubleshooting Common Issues in Cabinet Crown Installation

Even with careful planning, you might encounter a few snags.

Gaps in Corners:

Cause: Imperfectly cut angles or slightly out-of-square corners.
Solution: Use a high-quality paintable caulk to fill small gaps. For larger gaps, you might need to re-cut a piece or use wood filler.

Nail Pops:

Cause: Wood movement, nails not driven deep enough, or driving nails too close to the edge.
Solution: Gently tap the nail back in with a nail set. If it won’t go, pull it out and fill the hole with wood filler.

Uneven Paint/Stain Finish:

Cause: Inconsistent application, especially with intricate profiles.
Solution: Apply a second thin coat, ensuring even coverage. Use a good quality brush and work with the grain.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

What is the best way to cut crown molding for corners?

The best way is to use a compound miter saw set to the correct angles. For inside corners, you’ll make opposing 45-degree miter cuts. For outside corners, you’ll also use 45-degree miter cuts, but the angles will be oriented differently. Always perform test cuts on scrap pieces.

Can I use a simple miter saw for crown molding?

Yes, you can, but it’s more challenging. You’ll need to use the “against the fence” or “in the rough” method and may need to approximate the bevel angle. A compound miter saw makes the process significantly easier and more accurate.

How do I secure cabinet trim without a nail gun?

You can use a hammer and finishing nails. Be sure to use a nail set to recess the nail heads just below the surface for filling. This method requires more patience and care to avoid denting the molding.

What kind of adhesive is best for crown molding?

A strong, flexible construction adhesive or a specialized crown molding adhesive is recommended. Wood glue can also be used for reinforcing joints and can be used in conjunction with adhesive.

How do I handle a situation where the cabinet top isn’t perfectly straight?

If the cabinet top is slightly uneven, you can use shims behind the molding in places to help it sit straight. Then, use caulk generously to fill any resulting gaps between the molding and the cabinet.

Can I add crown molding to cabinets that have a soffit above them?

Yes, you can. The crown molding will then transition from the cabinet top to the soffit, creating a more integrated and custom look. You’ll need to measure and cut angles carefully to accommodate the soffit’s profile.

What is the easiest type of crown molding for a beginner to install?

Polyurethane or foam molding is often the easiest for beginners due to its light weight, ease of cutting, and resistance to moisture. Wood molding, especially hardwoods, can be more challenging to cut and handle.

Conclusion

Adding crown molding to your kitchen cabinets is a rewarding project that can dramatically enhance your kitchen’s appearance. By following these steps, choosing the right materials, and taking your time with the cuts and installation, you can achieve a professional-looking finish that you’ll be proud of. Remember to prioritize accuracy, use your tools safely, and don’t shy away from using adhesive and caulk to ensure a seamless and durable cabinet finishing. Happy installing!